The nature trip of a lifetime

Christened in 2022, Lindblad’s Islander ll is Lindblad Expeditions’ first ‘all-suite’ ship, so every guest is guaranteed a bit of the suite life. This means expansive marble bathrooms with dual vanities and rainfall showers, inclusive minibars, in-room WiFi and flat screen TVs with a collection of pre-programmed movies. And when it’s time to sleep, spacious beds and 600-thread count sheets ensure a restful slumber. Special features include an impressive observation deck, a dedicated science hub, sauna, plunge pool, library, bar area, and even a small spa for some at-sea pampering.

I see rocks piled high with the endemic marine iguana, black and red creatures that Charles Darwin famously dubbed “Imps of Darkness”.

All this adventure is bound to work up an appetite and for hungry cruise hounds, the food and drink offering on any ship is a highlight, and the National Geographic Islander ll certainly doesn’t disappoint. Meals are largely influenced by Ecuadorian and Galapagos flavours and utilise locally sourced ingredients wherever possible. By day, expect breakfasts and lunch in the airy Patio Café — with its enormous outdoor seating area to allow diners to soak in the idyllic views and to spot dolphins and sharks — and by night, expect multi-course dinners in the elegant Yacht Club Restaurant. There’s also a full bar onboard, with bar staff creating specialty cocktails daily.

Activities abound but life onboard is very much a ‘choose your own adventure’ style meaning you can do as much, or as little, as you like. No two days are alike, and the expeditions are as diverse as the islands visited, each of which offer a balance of wildlife, landscapes, and experiences.

One day I’m basking on a postcard-perfect beach — the kind of stretch of sand that would feature in a ‘world’s best’ roundup — and another day, we’re trekking over lava fields on a hike, during which I see hundreds, if not thousands, of albatross and both blue footed and masked boobies mating. That same hike I also see rocks piled high with the endemic marine iguana, black and red creatures that Charles Darwin famously dubbed “Imps of Darkness”.

Back onboard during dinner that night I tick off yet another Galapagos critter from my wish list: the Galapagos shark. Mid-mouthful I spot 30 or so huge grey silhouettes below the boat, their tails zig-zagging as they feed on reef fish. Another nature documentary-worthy moment that I won’t forget anytime soon.

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The ‘trip of a lifetime’ tag is a hackneyed cliché but in some cases, the Galapagos being one, this cliché rings true. However, as one of the last remaining places in the world unspoiled by humans, its popularity is soaring.

Last year saw record visitor numbers, and tourists here have doubled in the past decade alone. In response, the local government has announced a doubling in park fees amid concerns that rising visitor numbers will put pressure on the ecologically sensitive destination so, for those wanting to experience the islands that inspired Darwin, it really is a case of see them now before it gets too late.

The writer travelled as a guest of Lindblad Expeditions.